The Zambezi River: Four Countries, One Journey

Victoria Falls is the world’s largest waterfall by total sheet area – 1,708 metres wide and 108 metres high at maximum. By comparison, Niagara is 57 metres high. The comparison matters not to diminish Niagara but to make clear what scale of water movement the Zambezi produces at this point on its run from Zambia’s northwestern corner to the Indian Ocean near Chinde, Mozambique.

The Zambezi section most travellers see is the few kilometres through Victoria Falls and the adjacent gorges. Reducing the river to this stretch misses an extraordinary range of experiences – but the Falls section is where most visitors start, and it deserves its reputation.

Victoria Falls: Both Sides

The falls sit on the Zambia-Zimbabwe border. Each side offers a different experience and the $50 combined entry (Zimbabwe $30, Zambia $20) is worth considering if you have time for both.

Zimbabwe side (Victoria Falls town): The main viewing path runs 1 km along the gorge opposite the falls, giving frontal views of most of the main cascade. The spray soaks visitors on most of the path from November through June. The view from Danger Point, the westernmost lookout, is the closest approach to the main falls.

Zambia side (Livingstone town): The viewpoints are closer to the eastern end of the falls. During low water season (September-October), it becomes possible to walk to Livingstone Island and swim in the Devil’s Pool – a natural pool at the very lip of the main falls, 108 metres above the boiling pot below. Devil’s Pool tours are booked through Tongabezi Lodge (approximately $150-175 per person) and operate only when water levels allow. This is one of the more genuinely unusual swimming experiences available to non-specialist travellers.

The Knife’s Edge footbridge on the Zambia side crosses directly above the gorge’s base; during high water, walking it requires full rain gear and even then you emerge completely soaked.

White-Water Rafting

The rapids below Victoria Falls are rated Class IV-V and consistently rank among the best commercially rafted white water in the world. The section from the Boiling Pot downstream passes through 23 named rapids over 23 kilometres. Full-day trips cost approximately $120-150 per person. Season runs April through July at high water; late July through September operates on a shortened route.

Raft trips involve obligatory swims through several rapids and regular capsizes. A safety kayaker accompanies each raft. This is not a casual activity for non-swimmers.

Lower Zambezi

Downstream from the falls and Lake Kariba, the Lower Zambezi National Park in Zambia sits in a valley with escarpment walls rising 700 metres on each side. Multi-day canoeing safaris through the floodplain, camping on sandbars with elephant, hippo, and crocodile as unavoidable companions, represent some of the best wilderness travel in Africa. Access is by small aircraft from Lusaka or Livingstone; a 3-day canoeing safari costs $1,200-1,800 per person all-inclusive.

Getting There

Both Livingstone (Zambia) and Victoria Falls town (Zimbabwe) are accessible from Harry Mwanga Nkumbula International Airport near Livingstone – flights from Johannesburg, Lusaka, and Harare. Both towns have full accommodation ranges from backpacker dorms ($20 upward) to the Royal Livingstone ($800+ per night) and the Victoria Falls Hotel ($500+ per night). The Victoria Falls Hotel opened in 1904 and has verandas facing the spray plume; worth the formal lunch regardless of whether you’re staying.