Zermatt: Everything Revolves Around That Mountain

The Matterhorn is 4,478 metres and visible from almost everywhere in Zermatt. The pyramid shape — near-perfect, isolated above the surrounding ridge — is legitimately arresting, which explains why it’s appeared on Swiss chocolate packaging since 1908. Zermatt exists, economically and culturally, because of this one mountain, and the village has built an entire infrastructure to position visitors in front of it at various altitudes.

Zermatt is car-free. Private vehicles are left at Täsch, 5km away, where parking costs around CHF 15/day, and an electric train shuttle runs to the village (10 minutes, CHF 12.40 return). Within the village, electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages handle luggage. It’s a genuinely better arrangement than most ski towns.

Getting to Height

Gornergrat: The cogwheel railway (Gornergrathahn) runs from the village to 3,089 metres, with views across the Monte Rosa massif and 29 peaks over 4,000 metres. The return journey takes about 45 minutes each way. Costs around CHF 95 return in summer, more in winter. The summit has a hotel and observation terrace. Best for the Monte Rosa panorama.

Klein Matterhorn (Matterhorn Glacier Paradise): A combination of cable cars reaches 3,883 metres — the highest cable car station in Europe. The Matterhorn is directly overhead from here. There’s a year-round glacier ski area and an ice palace carved into the glacier. The full ascent costs around CHF 120 return. Go early; afternoon clouds often obscure the views.

Schwarzsee: Accessible by cable car in about 20 minutes. Sits at 2,583 metres directly below the north face. A small mountain lake reflects the Matterhorn on calm mornings; the chapel here dates from 1788. The classic Matterhorn photographs are often taken from this level.

Hiking

Summer hiking in Zermatt is exceptional. The 5-Seenweg (Five Lakes Trail) runs between Blauherd and Sunnegga on a 4-hour circuit passing lakes that each reflect the Matterhorn from a different angle. Moderate difficulty, clearly marked. The Gorner Gorge (Gorner Schlucht) is an easy 30-minute walk from the village — a river gorge with walkways built into the rock face, free entry.

For experienced mountaineers: the Matterhorn is one of the most technically demanding climbs in the Alps. The northeast Hörnli ridge (the standard route) is rated AD+ with sections of exposed scrambling on friable rock. A certified guide costs around CHF 2,500 for the two-day climb. Most attempts that turn back do so due to conditions rather than technical inability.

Skiing

Zermatt’s ski area is the largest in Switzerland and connected to Cervinia across the Italian border. The linked area covers 360km of pistes across three main areas: Rothorn, Stockhorn, and Klein Matterhorn. Season runs from November to April, with year-round skiing on the glacier above 3,000 metres. A six-day ski pass costs around CHF 430.

Where to Stay

The village has hotels ranging from budget guesthouses to the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof at around CHF 500/night. Hotel Alex is the well-regarded mid-range option with traditional wood interiors and a reputation for good service. Book several months ahead for February school holiday weeks and Christmas.

Where to Eat

Restaurant prices in Zermatt are mountain Swiss — substantial. Chez Vrony on the Findeln alp above the village does proper food with Matterhorn views and is worth planning a lunch around (book ahead). Elsie’s Bar near the church serves oysters and wine in a genuine 1880s building. In the village, the Migros supermarket at the main square is the practical option for picnic supplies.