Fes Hidden Gems: 7 Unusual Things to Do
Most people come to Fes for the Chouara Tannery photo, spend four minutes on a leather terrace holding a sprig of mint, and call it a day. That is the postcard version. The real city is one street over: a 17th-century fountain nobody stops for, a square where coppersmiths still hammer brass for a living, a synagogue whose rooftop looks straight down on a Jewish cemetery of nearly 13,000 graves. Give Fes 3 to 4 days, carry Moroccan dirhams (MAD) because you cannot buy them before you land, and ignore anyone at Bab Boujloud who says a street is closed today. It never is.
Fes essentials at a glance
| Days needed | 3-4 for icons and the quirky stuff; 2 is a rushed highlight reel |
| Best months | March-May and September-November |
| Daily budget | Budget 450-650 MAD ($48-70); mid-range 900-1,400 MAD ($97-150) |
| Watch for | Faux guides near Bab Boujloud claiming a street or sight is closed |
Finding your way through Fes el-Bali
Fes el-Bali is believed to be the largest car-free urban zone on earth, upward of 9,400 alleys, some too narrow for two people to pass. There is no vehicle traffic to dodge, but there is no reliable map either, and getting lost is the default state, not a failure. Taxis stop at a gate (Bab Boujloud, Bab Rcif, Bab Guissa) and you walk in from there.
The dirham is a closed currency: you cannot buy MAD outside Morocco, only withdraw or exchange it once you land, and roughly 1 USD converts to about 9.3 MAD. Much of the medina runs cash-only, so keep small bills for tips, taxis, and snack stalls.
An official guide (book through your riad or the Ville Nouvelle tourist office at Place Mohamed V, never a street tout) is genuinely worth it here, more than in most cities, because the density of unsigned fondouks and courtyards means a solo wander misses real doors. Book a licensed medina guided tour if you want the layout to click faster than a phone map ever will.
Fes hidden gems: 7 unusual things to do
- The Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts. Housed in a restored fondouk, this is where Fes’ carved-cedar tradition gets a proper home: pack saddles, doors, musical instruments, a rooftop cafe with medina views. Entry runs roughly 20-30 MAD depending who you ask; open daily, roughly 10am-5pm. Out front sits the real draw for most people who never go inside: a 17th-century public fountain, zellige-tiled and genuinely one of the most photographed-least-visited spots in the medina.
- A still-working fondouk. Skip the museum-ified one for a minute and find Funduq al-Tetwaniyyin, a 14th-century Marinid caravanserai next to the Al-Qarawiyyin mosque’s northeastern corner. Restored in 2019, it now runs as an artisan and cultural center rather than a ticketed sight: three-story galleries around a courtyard, carved cedar ceilings, no entrance fee, and none of the tour-group crush of the nearby madrasas.
- Seffarine Square. A small, open plaza named for the coppersmiths (seffarine) who still hammer brass and copper into lamps and trays here, apprentices working alongside masters the way they have for generations. It sits a two-minute walk from Al-Qarawiyyin and is free to wander; go around midday when the hammering is loudest.
- The Mellah, Ibn Danan Synagogue, and the Jewish cemetery. Fes’ Jewish quarter is the oldest in Morocco, dating to the mid-15th century, and its open balconies on Rue des Merinides look nothing like the blank medina walls elsewhere. The restored Ibn Danan Synagogue (dated to around 1680) charges a small entry fee or donation, and its rooftop looks over the cemetery’s white tombs below, nearly 13,000 graves on a hillside.
- Sunset from Borj Sud, not Borj Nord. Everyone’s itinerary points you to the Merenid Tombs and Borj Nord on the medina’s north hill. Borj Sud, a 1582 Saadian fort on the south hill, is the other half of that pair and gets a fraction of the crowd for the same panorama, looking back across the valley at Borj Nord and the tombs. Free, exterior viewpoint only, best in the hour before sunset.
- A cooking class inside a working riad. Fes’ pastilla (a sweet-savory pigeon or chicken pie under warqa pastry, dusted with cinnamon and sugar) is not something you casually replicate at home, and a market-to-kitchen class in a riad courtyard is the honest way to learn why. Book a cooking class and dinner in a traditional riad rather than walking up, since good ones fill fast.
- The Art Naji pottery cooperative in Ain Nokbi. Fes’ potters were relocated out of the medina to Ain Nokbi in 2013, away from the dust and kiln heat, and Art Naji is the family-run workshop worth the petit taxi ride east of Bab Ftouh. Free to visit, 8am-6pm daily, and you watch the full process, throwing, painting, hand-cutting zellige tesserae, before the showroom pitch starts. Prices are marked up for guide commissions; negotiating works better if you arrive unescorted.
Do you actually need a guide in the Fes medina?
For a first day, yes. Fes el-Bali’s alley count runs past 9,400, unmarked and mostly unmapped, and a licensed guide (roughly 600 MAD for a full day, 300 MAD for a half day at official rates, sometimes less through a riad) opens fondouks and courtyards a solo visitor would simply walk past. After day one, most people are comfortable wandering alone with a rough mental map.
The icons still worth the crowds
Fes leans quirky in this guide, but skipping the icons entirely would be its own mistake.
Is the Chouara Tannery worth the sales pitch?
Yes, with conditions. There is no official ticket, because it is not a government site: you view the dye pits from a leather shop terrace, take the offered mint sprig, and expect a 10-20 MAD tip if you do not buy anything. Go between roughly 10:30am and 3pm when the vats are actively worked, and a firm, polite decline ends the sales pressure without drama.
The Bou Inania and Al-Attarine Madrasas (20 MAD each, built in the 1350s and 1320s respectively) hold the finest surviving zellige and carved cedar in the city; Bou Inania is also the only one with a working mosque inside. Al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 CE and recognized as the world’s oldest continuously operating educational institution, bars non-Muslims from the prayer hall entirely, courtyard glimpses from the gates only, though the attached library has allowed occasional tourist access since its 2016 reopening. Bab Boujloud, the Blue Gate everyone photographs, actually dates only to 1913, a French colonial-era build, not the medieval structure it is often assumed to be.
How many days do you need in Fes?
Three to four days covers the icons and the quirky picks above without rushing; two days works if you accept a highlight-reel pace and skip half the list. For the day-by-day breakdown, see the 2-day itinerary for a tight version or the 5-day itinerary if you want Borj Sud, Art Naji, and the cooking class in one trip. Pairing Fes with Meknes, Volubilis, or a multi-day Sahara run stretches this further; see the guide to Fes as a base for that math.
Where to stay (riads) in Fes el-Bali
A riad inside the walls, not a hotel in Ville Nouvelle, is the way to actually experience Fes: courtyard architecture, rooftop terraces, and a five-minute stumble to the alleys instead of a taxi ride. Doubles start in the $35-45 range and climb fast for restored boutique properties with a pool or hammam. Check riad availability in Fes on Booking.com before you land, since the medina has few rooms compared to a modern city center and good ones sell out in spring and autumn.
When to go: Fes by season
Spring (March-May, roughly 15-25C) and autumn (September-November, roughly 18-30C) are the comfortable, busy, expensive months. Summer regularly tops 40C in July and August, and the medina’s stone lanes trap heat badly enough that midday walking becomes genuinely unpleasant, though it is also the cheapest and quietest season. Winter runs cool and wet, roughly 5-15C, with January the wettest month.
Ramadan 2026 runs roughly February 19 to March 19, with Eid al-Fitr around March 20-21. Tourist-facing riads and restaurants generally stay open through the day, but local cafes close until sunset, and accommodation often runs 10-20% cheaper for travelers willing to be respectful about public eating and drinking during daylight hours.
For official context on the medina’s UNESCO status, see visitmorocco.com’s Fes travel page or the UNESCO listing for the Medina of Fez . Bring a scarf either way: it doubles as sun cover and a fast modesty layer for the mosques and madrasas.