Bali is an island and a province of Indonesia, not a country and not a single resort strip. That is the first thing most visitors miss, and it shapes everything after it: a week spent circling Ubud, Kuta, Seminyak and Canggu covers a small, dense corner of an island that runs about 140km east to west. The visitors who feel like they saw Bali on a first trip usually skipped the tourist levy question, misread the visa, and never learned that the rice terraces on their feed are not the ones with the UNESCO listing.