Recent Alpaca Travels
Blinking Bridge, Newcastle
The Gateshead Millennium Bridge was the world’s first tilting bridge when it opened in 2001, and the tilt mechanism is what earns it the nickname. When a vessel needs to pass, the entire structure rotates on its axis like an enormous blinking eye – the deck and arch move together, the arch descending while the walkway rises, until the gap is large enough for river traffic beneath. The...
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Altun Ha, Maya Site
The most famous object recovered from Altun Ha is a jade head, 5.25 pounds, carved in the Classic Maya period. It was found in 1968 in the Jade Head Temple (Structure B-4) by the archaeologist David Pendergast during a Canadian excavation. The head depicts Kinich Ahau, the sun god, and is the largest carved Maya jade ever found. It is now in a vault at the Belize Bank in Belmopan, brought out only...
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Summer Palace, an Imperial Garden in Beijing
The Summer Palace: Beijing’s Imperial Garden at Lake and Hill Empress Dowager Cixi notoriously diverted funds intended to modernise the Chinese navy to rebuild the Summer Palace after the Second Opium War. The Marble Boat on Kunming Lake – a palace pavilion designed to look like a Western-style paddle steamer – is the physical emblem of this decision: built partly with naval...
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Kuelap Peru
Kuelap: Larger Than Machu Picchu, Visited by Almost Nobody Kuelap sits at 3,000 metres in the cloud forests of Peru’s Amazonas Region. The outer walls reach 20 metres in height. The complex contains roughly 500 circular stone structures. The entire fortified settlement is larger than Machu Picchu by area. It was built by the Chachapoyas people between 900 and 1200 AD and inhabited until the...
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La Citadelle La Ferrière
La Citadelle La Ferrière: The Most Significant Fortress in the Western Hemisphere Nobody Talks About Henri Christophe built the Citadelle La Ferriere to defend an idea. He had been enslaved. He had fought for Haiti’s independence. When the revolution succeeded in 1804 and created the world’s first Black republic, Christophe understood that France or Spain or Britain might simply come...
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Tintagel Castle
King Arthur was almost certainly not born here. That matters less than you’d think, because Tintagel is extraordinary without the mythology – a ruined 13th-century fortification split between a clifftop headland and a tidal island on the north Cornwall coast, connected by a 60-metre footbridge that English Heritage spent around £3 million to build. The bridge opened in 2019 and is, in...
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Valle De Vinales, Cuba
Valle de Viñales: Cuba’s Most Spectacular Landscape, with a Few Catches The mogote limestone formations that rise from the floor of the Viñales valley are some of the most dramatic scenery in the Caribbean. Steep, forested, geologically ancient, they stand in abrupt contrast to the tobacco fields and red soil of the valley floor. It is a genuinely spectacular place, and the small town of...
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Angkor, Cambodia
Angkor: The Largest Religious Monument Ever Built Angkor Wat’s moat alone is 5.5km around, and the moat is just the framing. What it frames is a temple complex covering 400 acres, built in the 12th century under King Suryavarman II, oriented westward (toward the setting sun and toward death in Khmer cosmology, which is one reason scholars believe it served as both a Hindu state temple and a...
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Belfast
Belfast Does Not Need Your Sympathy For most of its history in the international imagination, Belfast was shorthand for something you’d want to avoid. That image is now about 30 years out of date, and the city that has replaced it is one of the more interesting mid-sized cities in Europe: a working waterfront that has transformed without becoming sanitised, a food scene that punches well...
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Capitol Hill
Capitol Hill, Washington D.C.: Where History Is Still Operating Three of the most consequential buildings in American government sit within a five-minute walk of each other on Capitol Hill, and all three are open to the public, largely for free. That this is even possible, that you can walk into the building where laws are debated, the court where constitutional cases are heard, and the library...
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San Francisco
San Francisco Fog rolls in most summer mornings from the Pacific through the Golden Gate and sits over the Bay until late morning, when it burns off. This is not a design flaw in the city – it’s the specific atmospheric phenomenon, the California Current bringing cold water up from the deep Pacific close to shore, that Carl Sandburg and countless photographers have documented and that...
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Chand Baori
Chand Baori: The Most Geometrically Perfect Hole in the Ground The photographs circulate widely enough that most visitors arrive expecting something they have already seen. What you have not seen, until you stand at the rim, is the depth. Chand Baori plunges approximately 30 metres below ground level across 13 stories. Three sides descend in identical stepped tiers, forming a perfectly symmetrical...
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Brú Na Bóinne Neolithic Site (County Meath, Ireland)
Bru na Boinne: Older Than Stonehenge, Better Than You’ve Heard Newgrange was built around 3200 BCE – roughly 600 years before the Egyptian pyramids and 500 years before Stonehenge. The people who built it had no written language, no metal tools, and no wheel. They moved tens of thousands of tonnes of stone and earth with enough precision that a narrow shaft in the roof box aligns...
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Ararat
Mount Ararat: On Not Being Able to Reach the Thing That Defines You Mount Ararat sits on the coat of arms of Armenia, in the crescent beneath the eagle’s wings. The mountain is also entirely inside Turkey. This political geography has defined Armenian national identity since the mountain was ceded to Ottoman Turkey in the 1921 Treaty of Kars, and visiting it requires crossing into a country...
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Art District, Beijing
The 798 Art District looks like a contradiction on arrival: Bauhaus factory buildings from the 1950s, built by East German architects under the early People’s Republic, now housing galleries selling work for prices that would have been ideologically unacceptable to the government that originally commissioned the structures. The red brick walls, the sawtooth factory rooflines, and the...
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Pontcysyllte Aqueduct Llangollen Canal Wales
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct: Walking Across a Cast-Iron Trough 38 Metres in the Air Thomas Telford designed the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. It opened in 1805. It is 307 metres long, carries the Llangollen Canal across the River Dee on 19 masonry piers, and stands 38 metres above the water in the valley below. It is the longest and highest navigable aqueduct in Britain and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The...
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Visit Iguazu Falls
Iguazu Falls: Both Sides of the Border Eleanor Roosevelt, reportedly, saw Iguazu Falls for the first time and said, “Poor Niagara.” Whether or not she actually said it, the comparison is apt. Iguazu is 275 waterfalls strung across nearly 3km of the Iguazu River on the border between Argentina and Brazil. The biggest single drop, the Devil’s Throat (Garganta del Diablo), sends the...
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Iron Bridge, Shropshire
Ironbridge: Where the Industrial Revolution Actually Happened The Iron Bridge was completed in 1779 by Abraham Darby III, and it is the world’s first cast iron bridge. That single sentence places Ironbridge Gorge at the beginning of a transformation that changed human civilisation: the Industrial Revolution didn’t start here, exactly, but the breakthrough that made it possible –...
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Miami Beach, Florida
Miami Beach: The Art Deco, the Crab Claws, and the Party You Might Not Want Miami Beach is a barrier island. Ocean Drive faces the Atlantic; the Art Deco Historic District spreads west from there; Biscayne Bay separates the island from mainland Miami. The photographs of pink-and-turquoise hotels with neon signs and palm trees against a blue sky are real and the area is genuinely as photogenic as...
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Amazon Forest
The Amazon Rainforest: How to Actually Get Into It The Amazon is the largest tropical rainforest on Earth, covering 5.5 million square kilometres across nine countries. Brazil holds roughly 60% of it. The statistics scale up into abstraction quickly: 390 billion trees, 16,000 species of trees, 1,300 bird species, 2,200 fish species. The only way these numbers make sense is to be inside the forest,...
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Casino Monte Carlo
Casino de Monte-Carlo: The Building Is Reason Enough Most visitors to the Casino de Monte-Carlo don’t gamble. They pay the entrance fee (currently €17 for the European gaming rooms; passport required; no one under 18), walk through Charles Garnier’s 1863 Belle Epoque interior, stand in the atrium under the stained glass and marble columns, look around at the painted ceilings, and leave...
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Walt Disney World
Walt Disney World: The Logistics Are the Product Walt Disney World covers 27,000 acres southwest of Orlando - roughly twice the area of Manhattan. Four theme parks, two water parks, more than 30 hotels, and enough restaurants to sustain a mid-sized city. Disney’s operational model depends on extracting money from guests continuously while making them feel they’re getting exceptional...
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Kerala
Kerala: India’s Most Tourist-Friendly State, and Still Worth It Kerala has been doing responsible tourism longer than almost anywhere in India. The state is compact - 560 kilometres north to south, averaging 35 kilometres wide - literate to a degree unusual in India, and has public transport that actually functions. It is also genuinely beautiful. The backwaters, the hill stations, the...
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Tiger Leaping Gorge, China
Tiger Leaping Gorge: Two Days, One of the Best Walks in Asia Tiger Leaping Gorge cuts between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain in northwest Yunnan, about 60 kilometres north of Lijiang. The Yangtze River (called the Jinsha in this section) drops around 200 metres over 16 kilometres. The gorge is deep enough that standing at the rim, the river looks like a thin silver thread far...
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Aleutian Islands Alaska
The Aleutian Islands: The End of the World, More or Less You cannot drive to the Aleutian Islands. You cannot take a train. You can fly, if you can find a connection through Anchorage, and you can take the Alaska Marine Highway ferry from Homer on the Kenai Peninsula on a route that runs the chain as far as Dutch Harbor and takes about four days. Most people don’t do either of those things,...
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Animal Kingdom, Disney World, Orlando
Disney’s Animal Kingdom: The Disney Park That Actually Earns Its Name Animal Kingdom is the only Disney World park that contains real wildlife, which distinguishes it from its siblings in ways that affect how you plan your day. The park covers 580 acres, making it the largest by area in the Walt Disney World complex, and the central landscaping around Discovery Island genuinely absorbs sound...
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Arches National Park
Arches National Park: Over 2,000 Natural Stone Arches in Eastern Utah Arches National Park in eastern Utah contains the highest concentration of natural stone arches in the world: more than 2,000, ranging from small windows in rock faces to the 88-metre span of Landscape Arch, one of the longest natural spans on earth. The arches formed over millions of years as water, wind, and freeze-thaw cycles...
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Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Aitutaki: The Lagoon That Most Lists Get Right Every credible ranking of Pacific lagoons puts Aitutaki at or near the top, and the consensus has never felt like marketing. The lagoon is genuinely extraordinary: a 50km² enclosure of water in multiple shades of blue and green, shallow enough to wade in most of it, with 21 motus (small coral islands) scattered around the inner ring. You fly in from...
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Bardo Museum, Tunis
The Bardo Museum: The Best Roman Mosaic Collection in the World, in a Hafsid Palace The Bardo Museum in Tunis holds the largest and finest collection of Roman mosaics anywhere on Earth. This is not a regional claim or a marketing superlative - it is the straightforward assessment of Roman art specialists. The mosaics from Thuburbo Majus, Dougga, Sousse, and dozens of other North African sites were...
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Samoa
Samoa: One of the Last Places in the Pacific That Feels Genuinely Unhurried Independent Samoa (to distinguish it from American Samoa to the east) is a two-island nation of about 220,000 people in the central South Pacific. Upolu, the smaller island, holds the capital Apia and the majority of the population. Savai’i to the northwest is larger, less developed, and the better destination if you...
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Ancient City Walls Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik’s City Walls: The Walk That Explains the City The first thing you understand when you walk the walls of Dubrovnik is that this was a city-state, not a village with ambitions but a genuine maritime republic with its own flag, its own coinage, and a foreign policy independent enough to maintain diplomatic relations with both the Ottoman Empire and the Habsburg monarchy...
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Baalbek
Baalbek: The Largest Roman Temple Ever Built, in Lebanon The Temple of Jupiter at Baalbek was, by volume, the largest temple in the Roman Empire. The platform on which it stood was itself a feat of engineering: the foundation stones include the Trilithon, three stone blocks each weighing approximately 800 tonnes, placed there by quarry workers using methods still debated by engineers. The largest...
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Hagar Qim, Malta
Hagar Qim: Malta’s Oldest Standing Structures and Why They Matter Hagar Qim (pronounced approximately “Hajar Eem”) was built between 3600 and 3200 BCE, which makes it older than Stonehenge, older than the Pyramids, and among the oldest freestanding stone structures in the world. It was built by a Neolithic culture whose identity remains archaeologically uncertain; they vanished...
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Celebrate St Patricks Day in Ireland
Celebrating St Patrick’s Day in Ireland: The Practical Guide St Patrick’s Day (17 March) is a public holiday in Ireland with genuine cultural significance, and visiting the country on the day involves navigating the gap between what international visitors expect (green chaos, rivers of Guinness, everyone in leprechaun hats) and what it actually is (a national holiday that means...
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Blue Grotto Sea Cave Capri
The Blue Grotto, Capri: What You’re Actually Getting For the Queue The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is one of the most visited caves in the world and is, fairly often, closed. Rough seas, high tide, and wind make the entrance - a 1-metre-high gap in the cliff face at water level - impossible for boats to pass. This happens regularly and without much notice. You can queue for an hour at the...
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Stonehenge
Stonehenge: What It Actually Is, and How to Visit It Properly Stonehenge is approximately 5,000 years old in its earliest phase, completed in its current general form around 1500 BCE. It stands on Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire in a landscape dense with prehistoric monuments: the Cursus (a 3-kilometre earthwork older than the stone circle), Durrington Walls (a massive Neolithic enclosure), the...
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Arashiyama - Kyoto, Japan
Go to the bamboo grove before 7am. After that, the path through the bamboo fills with tour groups, the photography becomes about shooting around other people, and the quality of the experience declines steadily through the morning. This is not unique advice – you will find it everywhere – and the reason it’s everywhere is that it’s correct, and most visitors don’t...
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Salar De Uyuni (Bolivia)
Salar de Uyuni: The World’s Largest Mirror Has Practical Complications Salar de Uyuni covers 10,582 square kilometres of the Bolivian altiplano at 3,656 metres elevation. In the wet season (December through April), a thin layer of water covers the salt flat and it becomes the world’s largest natural mirror, reflecting the sky so accurately that the horizon disappears. In the dry season...
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Museo Guggenheim Bilbao
Guggenheim Bilbao: The Building Changed a City, and the Serra Inside Changes You Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim opened in Bilbao in 1997, and what happened to the city afterward is now studied in urban planning programmes as the “Bilbao Effect” - the argument that a single bold piece of public architecture can redirect the economic trajectory of a declining industrial city. Whether you...
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Mill Complex at Kinderdijk
Kinderdijk: Nineteen Windmills and What They Were Actually For The Kinderdijk windmill complex is in the Alblasserwaard polder southeast of Rotterdam, and the 19 stone and wooden mills built here between 1738 and 1740 are the densest concentration of historic windmills in the Netherlands. They’re UNESCO-listed and genuinely attractive, particularly in early morning light or when one of the...
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Chester Roman Gardens
Chester is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in Britain, and the Roman Gardens are simultaneously one of the most honest and one of the most underrated parts of it. The gardens don’t preserve an original Roman site – they assemble fragments recovered during excavations across the city into a single open-air collection, which is a different thing. The reconstruction of a hypocaust...
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Amphitheatre of El Jem
El Jem: The Third-Largest Amphitheatre in the Roman Empire, With Almost No Queue Pompeii and Colosseum days involve hours of queuing and thousands of other tourists. The Amphitheatre of El Jem in central Tunisia attracts a fraction of the visitors those Italian sites receive, and that disproportion is worth examining. The El Jem structure is the third-largest in the Roman Empire (after the...
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Arthurs Seat
Arthur’s Seat: The Volcano in the Middle of Edinburgh Arthur’s Seat is 251 metres above sea level, an extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, and about 30 minutes’ walk from the Royal Mile. The approach from the Holyrood Park gate at the foot of the Royal Mile follows a well-worn path with a steeper final section to the summit. On a clear day, the view covers the full city, the Firth...
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Teotihuacan
Teotihuacan: The City Whose Builders Had No Name The Aztecs encountered Teotihuacan as ruins and called it “the place where the gods were created.” They did not know who built it. We still do not. At its peak around 400-500 AD, the city held an estimated 100,000-200,000 people, making it one of the largest cities on Earth. The people who organised this, who built the Pyramid of the Sun...
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Canon Del Colca
Colca Canyon: Not the Deepest in the World, But Close Enough to Argue The Colca Canyon in southern Peru is frequently described as the world’s deepest canyon. It isn’t - Cotahuasi Canyon, also in Peru, goes deeper. The more honest descriptor is that Colca is one of the deepest canyons on Earth, dropping more than 3,200 metres from the rim to the river below in certain sections, roughly...
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West Norwegian Fjords – Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord
Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord: Two Fjords, Two Very Different Experiences Both Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Both are genuinely spectacular. They differ significantly in character and are about 200 kilometres apart, making them complementary rather than interchangeable.
Geirangerfjord is the famous one: the waterfall walls, the cruise ships anchored below the...
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Carthage, Tunisia
Carthage: Where Rome Won and the Ruins Are Spread Across a Suburb Carthage was the most powerful city in the western Mediterranean for several centuries before Rome destroyed it in 146 BC. The general Scipio Aemilianus reportedly wept watching it burn, then ordered it burned more thoroughly. What the Romans then built on the ruins became a significant colonial capital. What you visit today is both...
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Whistler Blackcomb Ski Resort, BC
Whistler Blackcomb: North America’s Largest Ski Resort and How to Navigate It The PEAK 2 PEAK Gondola connects the summits of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains at 422 metres above the valley floor, with a 3-kilometre free span that set a world record when it opened in 2008. Two of the 28 cabins have glass floors. Riding it on a clear day, with Wedge Mountain and the Fitzsimmons Creek valley...
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Bucovina
Bucovina: The Painted Monasteries of Northeast Romania In the 15th and 16th centuries, the rulers of Moldavia commissioned a series of monasteries in what is now northeast Romania with exterior walls covered in frescoes. Not interior frescoes, which is what church patrons typically wanted, but exterior, every wall of every building painted with biblical scenes, saints’ calendars, and...
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Choquequirao, Peru
Choquequirao: The Inca Citadel Nobody Gets To Choquequirao is an Inca archaeological site comparable in scale to Machu Picchu, set on a ridge at 3,033 metres above the Apurímac River canyon in southern Peru. It sees around 30 visitors per day. Machu Picchu sees 4,000-5,000. The difference is entirely explained by access, there is currently no road to Choquequirao.
A cable car project has been...
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